The black skinned grape Sangiovese has roots in the early Roman Empire. First documented in Italy in the 1590s this wine grape was first referred to as Santiogheto. The name is derived from the Latin Sanguis Jovis, meaning “Blood of Jupiter.” It wasn’t until the 18th century the grape gained real recognition and became the most planted grape in Italy.
Did you know? Italy and France trade off being the largest and second largest producer of wines in the world. And lucky for us, in recent years there has been an increase in the amount of Italian wines exported to the U.S. Italy carries its own wine laws regarding agriculture, production, classification and labeling. There are a documented 350 grape varietals authorized for wine making in Italy, of which Sangiovese is by far the most widely planted. Often referred to as the ‘Pride of Tuscany,’ this is the main grape used in the Chianti, Chianti Classico and Brunello wines. It is also used in Super Tuscans where it mostly blended with non-traditional Italian grapes, such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and/or Syrah.
This sensitive grape takes on different stylistic impressions depending on where it grows. While the grape prefers a warm climate with a long growing season, it grows well in many different soil types. Because of the varied growing conditions, there can be a variety of styles of Sangiovese, but generally the wine is a lighter bodied red with high acidity and medium tannins. With the high acidity but light body, this grape is a challenging for wine makers as they strive for full flavors. One method to create a fuller flavor profile and balance the acids is to use colder temperatures to slow down the fermentation process and then round out the wine with an extended time in oak. On the other hand, the grapes can easily undergo a faster fermentation and reveal a bright, young red wine that is an easy drinking red for warmer weather. Consider this a wine for Pinot Noir drinkers. What’s important is to know this grape grows well in varied conditions and many different techniques can be used for production. Look for a region or a style you enjoy, but don’t be afraid to venture out and discover different Sangiovese.
A Sangiovese wine that undergoes oak aging will often benefits from decanting 30 minutes, and most can be aged up to 10 years. Expect flavors of dark cherry, roasted tomato, oregano. When aged in oak, look for added layers of espresso, leather, cedar, vanilla and sweet balsamic. There is an underlying saltiness to Sangiovese, which makes this an ideal food wine. It pairs well with lighter meats such as veal or lamb, and tomato-based dishes, which is often difficult. Consider this your go-to wine for pizza!
Sangiovese grows well in Mendoza, Argentina, where it is usually used as a blended bulk red wine for export. Due to the immigrants from Italy after World War II, Australia now boasts the highest concentration of Italian wine varietals outside of Italy. The region of Knights Valley in particular is home to the best Australian Sangiovese. The region of Stellenbosch, South Africa is home to only 63 hectars of this grape, with only 10 producers using it, but the finished wines are quite rich and fruit forward. California also grows this grape, but in a small quantity. And since the soil and climate of Texas is similar to that of Tuscany, we’re finding a growing number of vines in the Lone Star State.
Lost Draw 2017 Sangiovese– Texas High Plains ($38 bottle) Lost Draw Cellars is a family-owned business that offers 100% Texas-grown wine. The vision of a grape farmer, a retired oil & gas distributor, and a civil engineer came together in 2013 to make Lost Draw Cellars a place where locals, tourists, wine enthusiasts and wine connoisseurs could come together to enjoy good company, an inviting atmosphere and most importantly, a quality Texas wine. First planted in 2005, Lost Draw is the 2ndlargest grape farmer and provider to 30 wine makers in our state. This Sangiovese drinks like a traditional Chianti, with depth and character that isn’t always found in a young wine from Texas. This wine is bright with a refreshing smooth finish. Aged 14 months in neutral French Oak, this wine has structure without harsh tannins.
Noceto 200 Sangiovese– Amador, California ($25 bottle) Planted in 1987, Vino Noceto has gained national recognition as the ‘Best Sangiovese in America.’ Of their family’s 40 acres, 25 are under vine and nearly all planted with Sangiovese, considered the only California winery focused on this grape. The winery continues to be family owned and practices sustainable farming and winemaking. Amador County is located in the Shenandoah Valley, in the Sierra Foothills, just outside of Sacramento. The nearby Lodi region has more acreage under vine than any other region of California, which should the growing conditions to be excellent. Amador is the neighboring region, and the quality of grapes is of equal excellence. This older vintage is now sold out from the winery and is often sought after for the chocolate finish that rounds out the wine.
Argiolas Costera Cannonau2016 – Sardinia, Italy ($21 bottle) Argiolas is the foremost wine estate on the island of Sardinia producing archetypal wines from native varietals. Antoni Argiolas, who died in 2009 at the age of 102, inherited 7 acres of vines from his father in 1938 and was the first on the island to convert to modern viticulture to pursue quality over quantity. His sons, Franco and Giuseppe, replanted the vineyards in the 1980s with the goal of reducing yields and focusing exclusively on Sardinian grapes. The Argiolas family is today recognized as Sardinia’s leading wine producer with 600 acres planted. Sardinia is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean and lies roughly 190 miles west of Italy’s mainland. The kingdom of Aragón ruled Sardinia for 400 years and many of its vines came from Spain, including Bovale Sardo, Carignano, and Cannonau. What you may not know is: Cannonau is another name for Granacha, but in Italy, is known as the ‘Sangiovese of Sardinia.’ This may be a bit of a cheat for our flight of Sangiovese, but this is an excellent wine with flavor much closer to those of Sangiovese than Granacha, and at an excellent price with some great teaching points! One other note about the island: Sardinia is home to an orchard of cork trees, which is the source for 100% of the bottle corks used by Texas’ own Becker Wines.